The glory of hocks

I like to keep smoked bits of pork (bacon trim, smoked shoulder leftovers, knuckle bones from hams) in the freezer. When I’m making a pot of beans, I’ll pull these out and toss em in to flavor the beans.

After today I have a new favorite strategy- I roasted hocks, and then used one in the large soup I was making to share with our neighbors who are building fences for us, and put the remaining ones in my freezer to make the next round of soupmaking even more convenient. It was my first time opening the packages that have accumulated labeled “hocks.” When we started putting our cutting orders together- for our own family use and for retail, we always ask for the hocks, neck bones, and lard back. We render the lard ourselves and I’ve never had pie crusts turn out as fabulously as they have since I’ve been using the lard. But while I’ve been using parts of a pig that I’ve not had the opportunity to see before let alone cook with, the hocks were both the most exciting and where I experienced the most resistance. I thought enthusiastically about the collagen and nutrients and minerals that Sally Fallon got me excited about but I worried about seeing the feet. Funny thing- I was afraid of pigs’ feet. Maybe the hooves would feel ‘dirty’- how do they get them clean? Or maybe it was the stigma of seeing and cooking with something that was somehow a more intimate reminder of a hog I cared for and whose belly I scratched. But I can’t tell you my relief when I opened up the package and did not see the cloven hooves, but neat rounds of the foreleg, with considerable meat, circling mineral laden bones, and ensconced with the fat and rind that I knew would pop and crackle and carmelize in high heat. So please, get the hocks back- face your fears…. The meaty chunks were mouthwateringly tender and flavorful. The stock was rich and creamy and all we needed for our meal after a long day working in the field cutting and stacking wood, unloading lumber, and digging in the garden was a small bowl of beans with a neat round of this pork topping it off. We have run out of garlic and used store bought but for this late March meal, we had our own onions, lemon thyme, and of course, the pork hocks. For cold and tired farmers getting re-acclimated to all this physical work that comes with springtime, it was perfect.

White bean soup with lemon thyme and kale
1 lb great northern or other bean, soaked overnight after having been brought to a boil briefly. Change the water before cooking.
4 cups water or stock ( the soup gets rich enough with if you just have water but is even better with stock).
2 Tb. Olive oil
One medium onion
One leek
6 medium carrots, diced
One bunch kale, chopped
1-2 T. lemon thyme (dried in this case)
One – two roasted hock sections (I trimmed the fat on one of them)
4 cloves garlic
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Saute the onions, leeks, until fragrant and translucent. Add the carrots, and pour in the beans with 4 cups fresh water or stock. Add the roasted hocks, thyme, pepper and later, the garlic and kale. Cook on a simmer (don’t do a boil) for about 2.5 hours or until beans are tender, adding more stock or water. To serve, remove the hocks and discard the fat and bones, leaving the medallions of meat. Put one medallion in each bowl, grind more fresh pepper over, fresh herb sprigs, and a dollop of thick or sour cream.

*To roast the hocks
Rub hocks with salt and pepper and rosemary or herbs as desired.
Roast at 425 until deeply browned, about 30- 45 minutes.